NEPAL TRAVELLER
Mount Ama Dablam, situated at 6,812m, is one of the prettiest mountains in the world. It is located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, south of Mount Everest. The meaning of the name Ama Dablam is 'Mother's Jewels'. This name was given by local people of sherpa communities living in the Kumbu area because in the southwest face of this peak, one can see a hanging glacier which appears similar to an ornament box which is used by sherpa women. This peak is nothing in front of Everest if we compare it with a height but when it comes in beauty, no any peak can beat Ama Dablam as it signifies the beauty of women and their ornaments.
THINGS TO OBSERVE
Ama Dablam peak expedition will provide climbers with beautiful views as the journey to this peak itself is one major pretty thing to observe. One can see stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and many other small snow-capped mountains on their way. One can spoil themselves with the beauty of the region and its cultural heritage as it lies in the Khumbu region, home of sherpa communities. We can enjoy the hospitality of sherpa and their lifestyle along with culture and tradition. We can also view many buddhiest monasteries on our way to climb. One can witness the changing colours of dense forests growing on hillsides, encountering farms and wild animals and birds as well as visiting friendly Sherpa-run lodges and tea-houses etc. which provide unforgettable experiences for lifetime. Also, the beautiful sunrise and sunset view from the top of the summit will add a glorious smile to your face which will add color and happiness to your journey. Despite being a technical peak, its beauty will give you strength to travel and explore more and more.
HISTORICAL ACHIEVEMENT
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (New Zealand) via the southwest ridge (standard route). They were well-habituated to altitude as they have wintered over at 5800 metres near the base camp of the peak as part of the 1960 to 1961 Silver Hut expedition, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
DEATH RATE
Being the lower altitude, Mt. Ama Dablam is still the most difficult and dangerous to climb because of its snowy and icy way. According to the 2018 database, about 32 people have died while attempting to climb this peak. The causes of death were mainly because of fall, avalanche and altitude sickness.
CLIMBING ROUTE
The Southeast ridge is the popular route as well as it is the standard route, too which was used by first climbers. Being a popular route doesn't mean it is less dangerous. This route is only a little more safe than the other 2 routes - North and Southeast ridge. As these two routes are extremely technical and subject to avalanches.
BEST SEASON
As with the most Himalayan peaks, Spring is best since every day it gets warmer with less threat of snow. Also, in spring the area is full of climbers coming for Everest so autumn is also suitable for climb. However since winter can still be around so it can be quite treacherous with frozen precipitation.
TIME DURATION
This trip actually lasts for about 27 to 34 days in which 8-9 days are needed to climb Ama Dablam. Rest of the other days are spent trekking, exploring sherpa locality and roaming around the area of greenery.
TOTAL COST
The costs can range from US $5000 to US $10000 depending on who you use, which route you follow and what your itinerary actually looks like. If you do everything yourself, you will be able to cut the highest cost in half or more.
REQUIREMENTS
To summit this peak you need to have a high level of physical fitness and high level of technical climbing because of snow, rock climbing and icy steps.
Experienced- Climbers should have successfully completed a minimum of 3 Day Mount Rainier or Mount Baker Climb and should have climbed peaks below 6400m before (or have similar experience).
Climbing gears- Climbers should have proper knowledge on using climbing gears like crampons, ice axe etc. before going for climb.
Mental Ability- Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes.The requirements are also based on your desire to have similarly skilled team members.
Travel Documents: PP size photos, valid passport, insurance paper, family members contact address etc.
Mountaineering equipments- Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Jummer, Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer etc.
Clothing and Wears- Snow google, Wool cap, Thermal Underwear, Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest,Neck Gaiter, Gloves etc.
Gadgets- Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight etc.
Other equipment: Sleeping bags, Bag packs, Sun stuff, Medical, Eating and Drinking stuffs, Toiletries, Fleece hats and so on.
PERMIT AND REGULATIONS
For climbing Mount Ama Dablam, you need to have following permits;
TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)- NRS 1000 (USD 9) per person if they have come in a group and NRS 2000 (USD 18) per person if they have come individually.
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit- For entering the Sagarmatha National Park, the park that is home to the Mount Everest Region, for Everest Base Camp, you need to obtain an entry permit. This permit costs 30 USD + government tax.
Mount Ama Dablam Climbing Permit- USD 400 during spring, USD 400 during autumn and USD 200 during winter/summer.
Permit should be taken from Government of Nepal since height above 6500m peaks permit are given by them. This permit will be taken by your trekking company and will charge a specific amount of money. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Mount Ama Dablam. Also, one needs to pay fees for Liaison Officer, his/her insurance, food allowance, Insurance of whole Nepali staff including porters in order to obtain permit and Garbage Deposit at ministry.
RESTRICTIONS
In Nepal, Mount Ama Dablam climbing imposed certain kind of age, health restrictions and they are;
Age- Minimum 16 and no restriction has been set in upper age till now
Health- Should have a strong body, risk taking mindset and health should be free from any kind of sudden attack diseases.
NOTE: Till now in Nepal, permits to climb mountains in Nepal are issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to 33 peaks and rest of others permits are issued by the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
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