Mount Api Expedition

1, Oct 2020 |

Api himal offers you untouched natural beauty along with climbing adventures.


Mount Api, situated at 7,132m, is the highest mountain in the Yoka Pahar Section of Gurans Himal. The attractive Api mountain rises between the Indian sub-continent and frozen plains of Tibetan Plateau in Humla District of Nepal. It is located at the north-west corner of Nepal near the borders of India and Tibet. Api Peak is a climbing peak in the Byas-Rishi mountain range of Khumbu Byas municipality of Darchula. It is somehow a straightforward mountain and less technical than compared to other peaks. However, one should be experienced and should have proper knowledge about how to use climbing gears.


The area of the Api himal is very remote and untouched. Only a few tourists have visited this region. This area consists of a wild and extremely beautiful mountain landscape full of eotic people, rapid rivers and pristine forest. This area is a very remote area with virgin nature, off beaten path, mysterious culture and panoramic mountain’s view of Nandadevi (7817m, located in Uttar Pradesh of India) Rajramba (6,537m), Kapchuli Peak(6,850m) and many other snow-capped mountains. There is also a lake called kalidhunga, which is about 2 hours by walking from base camp. This is one of the holy lakes of this area. This region is popular for bird habitat. Over 118 species of bird including the Impeyan Pheasant, Snow Cock, Blood Pheasant, and Red-billed Cough are found in this area. You will also get a chance to encounter many endangered animals like Red Panda, Snow Leopard, Musk Deer, Himalayan Tahr, Marten, Himalayan Mouse Hare (Pika) and so on. Agriculture is the main occupation of people living in this region. The cultural variety is maintained by the local community which includes Chhetries, Mahara, Bohora,Thekare, Jhakari, and Lohar.


The Api region was visited by westerners in 1899, 1905, and 1936, but the peak was not attempted until 1953. During 1953 and 1954, there were 2 attempts made but was unsuccessful and resulted in the death of 2 members from the 1954 expedition part. The first climb to Api peak was made by the Doshisha Alpine Society of Japan via Northwest Face route in 1960. A British Army Mountaineering Association expedition made an attempt to climb the peak in 1980 by the south face reaching within a few hundred meters of the summit. Polish climbers, Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Bielu, made the first winter ascent on December 24, 1983.


Api peak climbing is a wonderful journey. The popular month for climbing this peak is in spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) season. The skies are clear and beautiful during these seasons. You can see the snow-covered peaks and the Himalayan ranges up close with the clouds distracting you. But, this climb is doable in other seasons also. However, you’ll need proper planning and the right trekking gear to deal with the weather and temperature.


Api Peak climbing expedition is around 45-55 days challenging adventure trips.The expedition starts from Kathmandu where you will make essential backpacking and preparation. It takes about 20 days for you to attempt the summit during which you take days rest and construct different camps at different heights for acclimatization.


The total cost for climbing Api peak varies as per the services, itinerary and route you take. However, normal price for climbing this peak is;

Spring - US $ 12,000

Autumn - US $ 11,800

Winter/Summer - Us $ 11,600

Above mentioned cost is a practical cost, but the cost can be more or less than this depending upon ground transportation and flight tickets, climbing royalty and required permits, necessary climbing gears, food during the expedition, tea house and camping accommodation, sleeping bags and mattresses and so on.


To summit this peak you need to have a high level of physical fitness and moderate level of technical climbing

Fitness Certificate: Climbers should submit their fitness certificate in order to avoid future damage and to make sure that they are ready for adventurous activities like expedition.

Experienced- Climbers should have successfully completed a minimum of 3 Day Mount Rainier or Mount Baker Climb (or have similar experience). 

Mental Ability- Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. The requirements are also based on your desire to have similarly skilled team members.

Travel Documents: PP size photos, valid passport, insurance paper, family members contact address etc.

Mountaineering equipments- Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Jummer, Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer etc.

Clothing and Wears- Snow google, Wool cap, Thermal Underwear, Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest,Neck Gaiter, Gloves etc.

Gadgets- Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight etc.

Other equipment: Sleeping bags, Bag packs, Sun stuff, Medical, Eating and Drinking stuffs, Toiletries, Fleece hats and so on.


For climbing Mount Api, you need to have following permits;

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)- NRS 1000 (USD 9) per person if they have come in a group and NRS 2000 (USD 18) per person if they have come individually.

Mount Api Climbing Permit- USD 500 during spring, USD 250 during autumn and USD 125 during winter/summer.

This permit will be taken by your trekking company and will charge a specific amount of money. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Mount Api. Also, one needs to pay fees for Liaison Officer, his/her insurance, food allowance, Insurance of whole Nepali staff including porters in order to obtain permit and Garbage Deposit at ministry.


In Nepal, climbing Mount Api imposed certain kind of age, health restrictions and they are;

Age- Minimum 18 and no restriction has been set in upper age till now

Health- Should have a strong body, risk taking mindset and health should be free from any kind of sudden attack diseases.

NOTE: Till now in Nepal, permits to climb mountains in Nepal are issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to 33 peaks and rest of others permits are issued by the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.


Mountain Expedition in Nepal

Pharchamo Peak Expedition

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition

Cholatse Peak Expedition

Chulu East Peak Expedition

Singu Chuli Peak Expedition

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