Nestled within the enchanting Kathmandu Durbar Square in Basantapur, the Kumari Ghar, also known as the Kumari Bahal, stands as a magnificent townhouse and serves as the sacred dwelling of the living goddess or vestal virgin. Built in 1757 A.D. (1813 B.S.) by King Jay Prakash Malla, this architectural masterpiece is the first structure to greet visitors entering Durbar Square, captivating them with its exquisite design and rich religious significance.
Approaching the Kumari Ghar, visitors are welcomed by a grand three-step entrance guarded by two majestic white-painted stone lions. The outer doorway boasts a remarkable wooden Toran, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship of temple artistry. The first floor features four beautifully carved windows, while the second floor boasts seven windows, with the four large outer windows adorned with famous peacock designs. Moving up to the third floor, the windows take on a more conventional appearance, including black-painted triple groupings at the center and round windows in rectangular frames between them. Delicately carved cornices adorn the walls just below the ceiling, adding a touch of elegance to the structure. The distinctive roof gradually slants upward and is supported by small struts depicting divine figures, attached directly to the wall instead of resting on the cornices below. Completing the exterior is a triple spire pinnacle adorned with triple umbrellas on a floral framework of three arches.
The Kumari, believed to be the incarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga, is a young girl chosen from the Buddhist Shakya clan. The selection process mirrors the practices used to find Tibetan lamas, with elders examining hundreds of girls and approving those who display 32 auspicious signs of divinity. The girls' horoscopes are also matched with those of the reigning king to ensure compatibility. The Kumari's reign ends upon her menstruation or even a slight injury to her body, at which point the search for her replacement begins. Former Kumaris receive a modest state pension, but it is believed that they will die young if they marry.
Inside the Kumari Ghar, a central open courtyard known as the bahal awaits visitors. At its heart stands a stone chaitya adorned with Pancha Buddhas, or Five Buddhas, as is common in Nepal Mandal. The bahal also houses two Chakras, one of which is intricately carved with the tantric Kumari Yantra. The Kumari Chhen, representing the ground floor, first floor (Maatan), second floor (Chwata), and roof, follows the traditional Newar residential style. Devotees are granted a glimpse of the Living Goddess from the second floor's Sa Jhya. Additionally, there are two revered holes on either side of the walls representing Nasadya, the god of dance and arts, and Mahankal Bhairav, worshipped during the annual Varshabandhan festival. The top floor showcases the grand throne of the living goddess, a golden seat carved in the shape of a peacock. On the final day of Indra Jatra and during Dashain, devotees gather to worship the Goddess Kumari seated upon this magnificent throne. The plinth of the bahal also boasts exquisite terra cotta carvings, although their specific stories have yet to be fully explored.
Originally constructed by King Jay Prakash Malla in 1757 AD, the Kumari Ghar exemplifies traditional Newari architecture. While the exterior has been meticulously restored, the interior still bears cracks caused by the devastating earthquake. Unfortunately, the government has not yet addressed this issue, presenting a concerning aspect of their neglect. The government provides a monthly allowance of 40,000 Nepalese Rupees to cover the Kumari's food, education, and other activities. However, the temple's maintenance and renovations have mostly focused on its external appearance and are primarily carried out during the Kumari Jatra festival.
The Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu stands not only as a testament to architectural brilliance but also as a revered place where the divine and mortal worlds converge, offering visitors a glimpse into the unique religious and cultural traditions of Nepal.
Before your visit to the Kumari Ghar, here are a few important things to know:
Location: The Kumari Ghar is situated near the southern entrance of Durbar Square in Kathmandu.
Timing: The best time to catch a glimpse of the living goddess is between 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. and 4-6 p.m. It's advisable to plan your visit accordingly.
Photography and Video: Please note that photography or video recording of the Kumari is strictly prohibited. Respect the cultural and religious significance of the place by refraining from capturing images.
Entrance Fee: There is a small entrance fee to access Durbar Square, but visiting the Kumari Ghar does not require any additional payment.
Keep in mind these guidelines to ensure a respectful and enjoyable experience while visiting the Kumari Ghar and immersing yourself in the fascinating traditions of Nepal.
photo credit: atlasobscura, thebuiltculture
Also Read
.jpg)
