Source::nepalnews
French climber Alasdair McKenzie, along with a team of veteran Nepalese Sherpas, made history on June 7, 2024, by reaching the summit of Cho Oyu via the challenging Nepal side. McKenzie, together with Gelje, Tenging Gyaljen, and other Sherpas, ascended the world's sixth-highest peak at 8,188 meters at 8:35 PM (Nepal Time) through the S-SW Ridge (SST-Nepal Route). Mingma Sherpa, overseeing the expedition from the Cho Oyu base camp, confirmed the accomplishment.
"McKenzie, Tenging Gyaljen, Gelje, and other Sherpas reached the summit after starting from Camp IV at approximately 2 AM. Their continuous effort over 17 hours led to their successful ascent," stated Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of SST. The meticulously planned expedition commenced in March and started from Lukla in the first week of May.
Cho Oyu, first summited in 1954 by Dr. Herbert Tichy, Sepp Joechler, and Pasang Dawa Sherpa, typically sees ascents from its Tibetan side. The Nepal side is notorious for its steep, vertical walls, making it a formidable challenge. The last successful climb from the Nepal side was in 2009 by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko via the South Face, underscoring the difficulty.
The expedition faced numerous obstacles. By May 30, McKenzie and the Sherpa team, including Mingteamba Sherpa, had fixed ropes up to 7,625 meters but had to retreat to the base camp due to a shortage of ropes. On June 4, fully prepared, the team launched their final summit push from the base camp.
The victorious team included:
Their dedication and hard work, coupled with the exceptional logistics and management provided by Seven Summit Treks, were pivotal in overcoming Cho Oyu’s Nepal side challenges. The entire team's efforts, along with Mingma Sherpa's leadership, deserve high praise for this achievement.
Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of SST and the first South Asian to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, played a crucial role in the expedition's success. His expertise in high-altitude logistics, climbing strategy, and profound understanding of the mountains were instrumental.
This historic ascent not only marks a significant milestone in mountaineering but also paves the way for future climbers from Nepal and around the world to tackle Cho Oyu from the Nepalese side. With this success, Cho Oyu becomes more accessible from Nepal, heralding a new era in Nepali mountaineering and inspiring future expeditions.
Seven Summit Treks, the organizer of this expedition, takes immense pride in this achievement and extends gratitude to all climbers, past and present, who contributed to this historic moment.
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