Step into a world of ancient opulence and architectural marvels as you enter the Sundari Chowk Palace Courtyard in Patan, Nepal. This hidden gem, tucked away in the southern corner of the palace compound, is a testament to the rich history and exquisite craftsmanship of the Malla dynasty. Commissioned in 1628 by Siddhi Narasimha Malla, the courtyard and its centerpiece, the Tusha Hiti stepwell, have withstood the test of time and multiple earthquakes, making it a must-visit destination for history buffs and art enthusiasts alike.
As you approach Sundari Chowk, you'll be greeted by the meticulously restored walls that surround the courtyard. Originally a two-story structure, an additional floor was added in the 1730s. The innovative use of an inward-facing, screened galley on the middle level showcases the architectural ingenuity prevalent during that era.
However, it is the Tusha Hiti that steals the show. Situated at the heart of the courtyard, this elaborately carved stepwell is a sight to behold. Believed to have been the private bath of the Malla ruler, the Tusha Hiti exudes a sense of grandeur and tranquility. Its unique design, resembling a yoni from above, evokes associations with sacred Hindu rituals involving water and purification.
As you descend into the bath, you'll be mesmerized by the intricate details that adorn the surroundings. The polished bronze spout, a work of art in itself, portrays a five-headed makhara, symbolizing the mythical source of water, Ganga. Flanking the spout are empty niches that once held statues of Shiva, Devi, Surya, and Ganesha, arranged in a panchayatana formation. Behind these niches, a miniature representation of the Krishna Mandir pays homage to the Malla ruler's devotion to Lord Vishnu.
Inside the recessed chamber of the stepwell, the walls come alive with dozens of bas-reliefs depicting the Eight Mother Goddesses, accompanied by their Tantric forms of Bhairav. The purpose of these intricate sculptures remains a subject of debate among experts, but it is believed that they facilitated the ruler's ritual devotions and visualizations of these deities.
While the Tusha Hiti's original function as a bath is contested, there is consensus on its significance as a place of reverence and offerings. Some scholars argue that it served as an altar for "aqua oblations" to Hindu deities, akin to the pure water offerings made in daily worship rituals.
The restoration efforts undertaken by the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust have ensured that the Sundari Chowk and the Tusha Hiti have been brought back to their former glory. Despite facing significant damage in past earthquakes, including the devastating events of 1934 and 2015, the courtyard and its centerpiece have been meticulously repaired and preserved.
As you explore this remarkable historical site, you'll be transported to a bygone era of regal splendor and architectural brilliance. The Sundari Chowk Palace Courtyard stands as a testament to Nepal's rich cultural heritage and serves as a reminder of the country's resilience in the face of adversity.
By: Daizy Dharewal
Photo Credits: Asian Cultural Architecture
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