Kusum Kanguru Peak Expedition

4, Oct 2020 | nepaltraveller.com

Experience the adventurous joy by undertaking this glorious challenge of summiting the magnificent Kusum Kanguru Peak.


Kusum Kanguru, situated at 6,367m, is located in the Khumbu region of the Himalaya in Nepal. It forms the border between the Dudhkoshi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north which is categorized as a technically difficult peak because of its rock and icy peak. Kusum Kanguru is the name from the sherpa language given my local community which meaning is 'Three Snow-White Gods' as Kusum Kanguru consists of three peaks- East Summit Kusum Kanguru (6358m), Main Summit Kusum Kanguru (6367m), and the West Summit Kusum Kanguru (5579m).


Kusum Kanguru peak offers the fantastic panoramic view of the Himalayas like Mt. Everest (8848m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m) , Makalu (8463m), Nuptse (7855m), Thamserku, Amadablam, Kwongde and many other snow-capped peaks. Along with the climbing experience and the views from the summit, the trekking to the base camp of the peak adds further pleasure to the trekkers. Walking to the Solukhumbu and visiting Namche Bazaar gives you good knowledge about diverse people. On the way you can explore the culture and lifestyle of the Sherpa people. Exploring Khumjung village and living the life with local people in their lifestyle gives meaning to your life. The Sherpa community never fails to show their warm greeting and hospitality to the visitors which will make you feel like visiting the area again and again. You traverse through the forest of rhododendron and pine where you can explore various types of the flora and fauna and wildlife. It enthralls you with its amazing remote trails scented with the essence of wilderness and wildlife like musk deer, Himalayan Thar etc. There cannot be a better choice than Kusum Kanguru Peak for anyone seeking thrills of challenges as well as astounding rewards of glorious views


The first successful ascent of the main peak was made on 7 October 1981, by Bill Denz of New Zealand which climbed through southwest face. Not only this, he is also known as the first solo ascent and the first traverse of Kusum Kanguru. Five days later, on 12 October 1981, a Japanese team made the second ascent via the southeast face. 1988 British Expedition led by Nick Mason, John Diplock and Julian Holmes conquered the previously unclimbed East Face of this climb.


This peak can be climbed from two sides - from the north ridge and from South East Ridge. The north ridge is approached from Manjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. The approach to south east ridge is made from Hinku valley side and summiting the main peak through South East Face.


In terms of weather and visibility, March, April and May in spring and September, October and November in autumn season is perfect for any climbing trip in the Nepalese Himalaya. However, it doesn’t mean people don’t climb peaks in winter or summer. It is all about much preparation before starting the journey as winter and summer have unstable kinds of weather.


Overall, the Kusum Kanguru expedition lasts for 17 to 22 days. The journey starts from flight to Lukla from Kathmandu and ends following the same route. As Lukla flights are found highly to be affected by weather conditions, it may even take more days than estimated to complete this whole trip.


The overall cost for climbing this peak from starting to ending ranges between US $ 2,500 to US $ 5,000 per person. However, the price will vary as per the group size. If you want your climbing to be deluxe and luxurious then you will be in position to pay a high amount of money. Also, routes and itinerary you follow will also make an impact on total cost.


To summit this peak you need to have a high level of physical fitness and moderate level of technical climbing

Experienced- Climbers should have successfully completed a minimum of 3 Day Mount Rainier or Mount Baker Climb (or have similar experience). 

Mental Ability- Climbers must be mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. The requirements are also based on your desire to have similarly skilled team members.

Travel Documents: PP size photos, valid passport, insurance paper, family members contact address etc.

Mountaineering equipments- Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Jummer, Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer etc.

Clothing and Wears- Snow google, Wool cap, Thermal Underwear, Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest,Neck Gaiter, Gloves etc.

Gadgets- Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight etc.

Other equipment: Sleeping bags, Bag packs, Sun stuff, Medical, Eating and Drinking stuffs, Toiletries, Fleece hats and so on.


For climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak, you need to have following permits;

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System)- NRS 1000 (USD 9) per person if they have come in a group and NRS 2000 (USD 18) per person if they have come individually.

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Permit- USD 250 during spring, USD 125 during autumn and USD 70 during winter/summer.

Permit should be taken from Nepal Mountaineering Association since height above 5800m and below 6584m peaks permit are given by them. This permit will be taken by your trekking company and will charge a specific amount of money. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Kusum Kanguru Peak. Also, one needs to pay fees for Liaison Officer, his/her insurance, food allowance, Insurance of whole Nepali staff including porters in order to obtain permit and Garbage Deposit at ministry.


In Nepal, climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak imposed certain kind of age, health restrictions and they are;

Age- Minimum 18 and no restriction has been set in upper age till now

Health- Should have a strong body, risk taking mindset and health should be free from any kind of sudden attack diseases.

NOTE: Till now in Nepal, permits to climb mountains in Nepal are issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to 33 peaks and rest of others permits are issued by the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.


Mountain Expedition in Nepal

Pharchamo Peak Expedition

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition

Mount Api Expedition

Chulu East Peak Expedition

Singu Chuli Peak Expedition

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