Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition

24, Sep 2020 | nepaltraveller.com

Mt. Dhaulagiri peak is white, dazzling beautiful mountain in the world which is considered as the interesting peak among the eight thousand meters mountains in Nepal.

NEPAL TRAVELLER

Mt. Dhaulagiri is the 6th highest peak in Nepal and therefore the 7th highest peak of the planet with its height 8,167m above from the ocean level. Located in Myagdi District within the northwestern corridor of Nepal, it extends about 120km from Kaligandaki River to the Bheri river within the west. “Dhaulagiri'' originated from the Sanskrit word, “Dhawala and Giri” which suggests “White and Mountain” respectively. Mt. Dhaulagiri is additionally the very best point of the Gandaki basin. The Annapurna I, which is 34Km east of Dhaulagiri I, in between these two giants a gorge is made, referred to as Kaligandaki Gorge. This gorge is the deepest gorge within the world and Kaligandaki River flows from this gorge.

HISTORICAL ACHIEVEMENT

Mt. Dhaulagiri, known as the mountain of storms and sorrows, was attempted to climb for the first time among other 8000 meter peaks by the French in 1950, but they abandoned their bid in favor of Annapurna I, and it became the very last 8000 meter peak in Nepal to be climbed. In 1960, a massive Swiss attempt was successful via the northeast ridge. The expedition, guided by a small glacier plane that was piloted by Ernst Saxer, finally ended the golden decade of Nepal’s giants by putting four Europeans and two Sherpas on the summit on 13th May, 1960.

TOTAL CLIMB

Till now, 64 people have died with about 1000 ascents succeeding to climb it.

THINGS TO OBSERVE

Climbing Dhaulagiri provides you a more intense experience of the mountains. You will be exploring deep into the Dhaulagiri region which will provide more spectacular views of Mount Dhaulagiri, Throng Peak, the world’s deepest gorge i.e. Kali Gandaki etc. You may encounter semi wild yak herds, Mountain sheep or the elusive snow leopard in the remote valleys of this region. You will climb over the glaciated French pass and Dhampus pass and then descend a winding trail to Yak Kharka. You will continue through mountain villages, enjoying the Hot Springs at the Tatopani and views of the majestic peaks of the Annapurna (26,539ft) and Machhapuchhre (22,937ft) as you make our way toward Pokhara, visiting several Monasteries and religious sites in route.

BEST SEASON 

The best time for climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in autumn (September, October and November). Regardless of this, you should also be prepared for sudden changes in the weather no matter what as no prediction can work well in weather.

Note: Climbing during January, February and March may be unsafe because of high cold and heavy snowfall.

REQUIREMENT

There are several requirements for climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri and they are;

Fitness Certificate: Climbers should submit their fitness certificate in order to avoid future damage and to make sure that they are ready for adventurous activities like expedition.

Experienced: In order to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri, you must should have climber other mountains with height in between 6000m to 7000m.

Travel Documents: PP size photos, valid passport, insurance paper, family members contact address etc.

Climbing Equipment: Climbing helmet, Down suit, Crampons, Hardware, Ice axe, Harness, Tape slings, Snow google etc.

Other equipments: Foot wear, gloves, sleeping bags, Bag packs, Sun stuff, Medical, Eating and Drinking stuffs, Toiletries, Fleece hat, Lower body stuff (down pants, waterproof pants etc.), upper body items (Thermo coat, Fleece Jacket, Cotton Tee etc.) and so on.

OVERALL COST

To climb Mt. Dhaulagiri, there is variation in cost depending upon the group of people, route and season. Having a total 6 routes for climbing Dhaulagiri, climbers still prefer to climb from northeast ridge as others are considered dangerous. So. cost per person from northeast route on different seasons including royalty cost are;

Spring- $30,000

Autumn- $29000

Winter/Summer- $25,000

Note: The cost may vary depending upon services and rules of travel agency as the cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs.

TIME DURATION

It normally requires 48 to 50 days to complete climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri. However, It may vary because of the weather conditions. The time also varies and depends on peak location and peak elevation.

PERMIT AND REGULATIONS

You have to take permits from Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS), Dhaulagiri Entry Permit and Dhaulagiri Climbing Permit ($1800) from the Government of Nepal since height above 8000m peaks permit are given by it. This permit will be taken by your trekking company and will charge a specific amount of money like for TIMS it ranges from USD 20 to USD 30 and so on. Without a valid permit you are not allowed to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri Peak. Also, one needs to pay fees for Liaison Officer, his/her insurance, food allowance, Insurance of whole Nepali staff including porters in order to obtain permit and Garbage Deposit at ministry.

RESTRICTIONS

In Nepal, climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri imposed certain kind of age, health restrictions and they are;

Age- Minimum 16 and no restriction has been set in upper age till now

Health- Should have a strong body, risk taking mindset and health should be free from any kind of sudden attack diseases.

NOTE: Till now in Nepal, permits to climb mountains in Nepal are issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to 33 peaks and rest of others permits are issued by the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.

ALSO READ:

Mountain Expedition in Nepal

Mount Everest Expedition

Mount Annapurna Expedition

Mount Lhotse Expedition

Mount Manaslu Expedition

Mount Kanchenjunga expedition

Mount Cho Oyu Expedition

Mount Makalu Expedition

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